Additional Instructions and Tips for Kuspuk Pattern
Fridays Kuspuk Power Point Presentation
The above PowerPoint presentation includes 50 slides containing full color photos of the construction process. It is a great tool for teaching classes too! Video shorts are available on my facebook page and Raintree Quilting’s facebook page.
Determining your size:
1. Measure your bust and waist.
2. Choose the size according to pattern recommendations.
3. Realize that the pattern includes “ease” in the bust, hip and arm length.
4. The “finished sleeve length” measurements are provided for you on the sleeve pattern piece. Please realize that finished measurements of the sleeve length should be about 4 inches longer than your measured sleeve length. Note that the sleeve length for this pattern is determined by measuring the distance from the center back neck to the wrist bone. Your body and arm movement require the 4 inches of ease…
Also, if you are making a larger size for women realize that you might need to shorten the sleeve. This is a unisex pattern. Therefor the shoulder width increases with size to accommodate the measurements of most men. Women, however, tend to have narrower shoulder widths in relationship to their overall size. Again, check the finished measurement chart provided for you on the actual sleeve pattern. The desired finished length should be 4″ longer than actual arm length (measurement from center neck, over shoulder, around elbow to wrist.)
5. If you plan to wear your Kuspuk over a sweater or heavier clothing, go up a size.
6. If you choose to make a ruffled version you will need to determine the length of the bodice. To do this, sit straight on a hard surface and measure the distance from your shoulder seam to the seat. This is the desired length of the finished bodice or top portion of the garment. Most people will need to shorten the front and back to this length. For the ruffle, you can cut the ruffle at any length. However, the fabric amounts reflect a 12″ ruffle. A 10″ ruffle is my new favorite. I might have photographs of this on Jodie’s Sewing Studio Facebook page. This length looks great with leggings!
7. Please, please, please contact me if you have any questions regarding how to size your pattern. I’m happy to respond to your questions.
Adjustments to the hood and sleeves can completely change garment!
Crossover Hood:
1. Prior to cutting the pattern piece, extend the neck curve gently to the left as depicted above.
2. Mark the center front neck with a notch. If you look closely at the image you will notice a red notch.
3. To create a forward facing for the hood, trace the new extended face curve then draw a parallel line 2″ in towards the center back of hood.
Note: I will post more instructional images soon
Sleeve Adjustment:
The green Kuspuk above features a fun sleeve. Simply omit the cuff! When cutting the sleeve straighten the lower 2 inches in preparation for a smooth hem.