Yes, I’m in a skiff with great friends… boating to Tenakee’s Community Center where we gathered to learn how to use sewing machines, how to work with patterns and how to make Kuspuks using patterns….. July 4th weeked 2015…. We have got to so (sew) do this again!
you are the first person to every talk to me about sewing with interest and expression. Most people just put me down and I appreciate your kindness to me
Hi Sheri! Nice to hear from you. And thanks, sewing is fun to talk about…
Hi Jodie. I ran into you tonight at Joann’s and asked about putting a zipper on the top of the kuspuk. I remembered the 1″ seam for the zipper, and something about another 3/8 ” for the hood portion of the zipper part. Can you elaborate a little further for me. I am looking forward to getting started on my new project.
The center front seam of the hood allows for a 5/8″ seam. I suggest adding an additional 3/8″ to the center front hood seam. This will provide you with a solid 1″ seam allowance for a neatly applied zipper.
Do I add an extra inch to the entire center front for the placement of the zipper?
Yes, I would. Also add 3/8″ to center front of hood if you plan to have the zipper extend up through the neck seam to the face curve.
I hope this posts OK. I tried to respond earlier will little success. I’m experiencing internet challenges tonight…
Sorry it took all day to respond. I’ve been out of Internet range… I suggest adding 1 inch to the “center front.” Typically a garment would utilize a 5/8″ seam allowance for a zipper. The one inch allows for a neater zipper placement. If you are using a short zipper for a pullover, you will sew a 1 inch center front seam from the bottom edge up to where you want your zipper to end.
NOTE: add an additional 3/8 inch to the center front of the hood seam allowance. There are several options regarding the hood. You could run the zipper into the center front of the hood up to the curved face edge. Or, the zipper could end at the neck. IF you choose to end the zipper at the neck I suggest the following steps: 1. Insert zipper as you normally would. Press front of garment. 2. Attach pocket as instructed in directions. 3. Sew shoulder seams. 4. Sew hood lining pieces along center back and top curve, right sides together. 5. (This might seem odd…) pin right side of hood lining to wrong side of unzipped neckline, matching notches to shoulder seams. 6. Sew hood pieces right sides together along center back and top curve… (Refer to instructions for trim placement)… 7. Pin hood to hood lining right sides together along face curve. The hood pieces will look like an odd shaped bag… Tuck the Kuspuk front and back into the “bag” (pinned hood pieces). Continue pinning the hood pieces together at the center front and at the neckline. You are pinning the hood to the hood lining right sides together with the rest of the garment in between. You will leave an opening about 6 inches wide at the center back of the neck. 8. Sew the hood face curve, center fronts and neck, remembering to leave the 6 inches open at center back. You will pivot at the junction of the face curve and center front. You will also pivot at the junction of the center front and neck where the zipper starts. 9. Trim the seams to 3/8″ and clip all curves. 10. Turn the garment out of the hood by pulling it through the opening. Press all seams and top stitch the center back opening. Note, if you do not effectively clip your curves, the garment neck and face curve will not lay flat.
I hope this is easy to understand! In the fall I will be able to devote more time to photographing samples and posting pictorial instructions. Thanks so much for your inquiry and happy sewing!
I’m excited to start making a kuspuk from the Friday’s Kuspuk pattern and happy to see hints on adding a zipper. I’ll be thinking about how to adapt the pattern to accommodate a full length zipper…. !
Jodie’s Sewing Studio