Each layer of trim should be applied separately. For example, you might sew a layer of bias trim to your sleeve first. Then you could center a layer of ric rac.
For trimming Pockets: I strongly suggest that you face or line your pocket first, before applying trim. When you begin sewing on trim, be sure to allow the trim to extend and inch or so beyond the finished edges of the pocket. You will fold this trim securely under the edges as you sew the pocket to the garment. You will also notice in the photos below that several of the pockets have “forward” facings. This is a simple technique where you use a facing of a contrasting fabric. The facing is sewn right side of facing to wrong side of pocket then turned forward and under…..
Hoods should be trimmed before lining. I like to line my hoods.
When attaching trim to curved edges ALWAYS sew the longer curve first. On a pocket, for example, you would sew the curve farther away from the pocket curved edge. You would then gently steam or iron the trim to allow the “inner edge” of the trim to “shrink into the curve.” Pin that inner smaller curve then sew. This is illustrated in the sewing instructions for Friday’s Kuspuk pattern.
Consider making your own bias trim of coordinating or contrasting fabrics. The options are limitless and cost effective when you do this. Many of the following examples include “home made” bias trims. I will use a combination of home made bias trim and cross grain trim. For the “cross grain” trim I use a quilting ruler and rotary cutter. I cut strips perfectly perpendicular to the selvage. If I want a finished 1″ trim, I cut a 2″ strip. For a skirted Kuspuk, I will cut two cross grain strips for the flounce. I will cut an extra strip or two for additional sleeve and cuff trim. I cut bias trim for curved areas of the garment such as the pocket and hood. (I hope to post videos of these techniques soon.)